AUTUMN VACATION

Autumn 2008, my first real visit to Edinburgh, I say 'real' because my previous visit was more of a passing through! After leaving Northumberland mid morning and challenging my friend to demonstrate his crossword skills during our journey, we arrived at our pre-booked B&B which on first impressions was adequate....... We unpacked and began our exploration of the City, which is built on extinct volcanoes.

First lession, how to catch a bus...... ensure you have the correct fare ready, they don't give change.

Out first port of call was the Royal Botanic Garden, which is just a stone's throw from the city centre, although the time of year left some things to the imagination it was a welcoming experience for a less than knowledgeable gardener. 70 acres of scenery, reflecting research and conservation work, amonst which the garden boasts many thousands of trees and shrubs. Something tells me we did not cover the 70 acres, though we did enjoy a peaceful ramble, followed by a visit to the Victorian Temperate Palm House - the tallest of it's kind in Britain, which leads on to the glasshouse experience offering an opportunity to explore ten distinct climatic zones holding around one percent of all known flowering plants, cycads and ferns.

One of my friend's photos - an interesting specimin from the glass house experience!

Above: Inside the Palm House

On our way back to our salubrious (tongue in cheek) B&B we checked out the local eateries in preparation for our evening meal. Decision made Indian cuisine it would be, which was no disappointment, shame we could not say the same about the bed..... like Edinburgh it felt like it was built on extinct volcanoes!!!!

Saturday - the day's excursions took us to one of Edinburgh's National Gallery houses where we spent a couple of hours strolling around the peacful setting and viewing masterpieces from Raphael, Titian, El Greco, Velázquez, Rembrandt and Rubens to Van Gogh, Monet, Cézanne, Degas and Gauguin. Like I know all about them..... well I know more now.

Diana and Callisto - Titian Diana and Actaeon - Titian
Campaign for the Titians

Diana and Actaeon and Diana and Callisto, both painted by Italian Renaissance artist Titian (Tiziano Vecellio) in the 16th century, rank among the greatest works of art on display anywhere in the world.
These works are part of the Bridgewater Collection, which has been on loan from the Duke of Sutherland to the National Galleries of Scotland since 1945. It is the most important private collection of Old Master paintings on loan to an institution in the UK, and forms the core of the National Gallery of Scotland’s world-famous displays of European art.
The Galleries now have the opportunity to acquire Diana and Actaeon and Diana and Callisto, thereby ensuring that the remainder of the Collection will continue to be on public view for many years to come. To that end, National Galleries of Scotland and the National Gallery London are now working together to secure the long term future of these paintings.

The Galleries has until the end of this year to raise the £50 million to acquire Diana and Acteaon. If this is successful, they have been offered assurances to secure the loan of the rest of the Bridgewater Collection for the next 21 years. The National Heritage Memorial Fund has recently awarded £10 million to help fund the purchase of Diana and Actaeon. If you are interest in helping the campaign you can donate on line through the National Galleries web site.

After an enjoyable and educational morning, lunch was required, my travelling companion suggested a trip down memory lane to Henderson's restaurant which he had frequented many years before with his family. A bit of background from their website:

Henderson's motto: Eat Better Live Better
For 40 years Henderson's has been at the forefront of healthy eating in Scotland's capital city. The Farm Shop at 92 Hanover Street and the conversion of the basement into ideas on whole foods picked up by Janet Henderson during her European travels during the 30s. Like Arthur's Seat and the castle, Henderson's just seems to have been there forever. It is difficult to imagine Hanover Street without it. Through good communication with our customers and keeping abreast of international trends Henderson's have tailored their fare to suit changing lifestyles. However, Janet's philosophy is still the mainstay of the business: to nurture, energise and heal the body by eating and drinking for health.

The ambiance was delighful and the food delicious, it was an all round good experience.

A walk in the fresh air now required, we strolled along the Royal Mile with it's elegant historic houses that compliment the altogether historic setting of the city. We walked up to the Castle which sits majestically on sheer granite cliffs, high above the city which is surrounded by rolling hills. There are impressive panoramic views from the castle right across to the distant sea.

Rest and relaxation required and with the increasing threat of heavier rain, we decided to go to The Jazz Bar, which is located in a basement on Chambers Street, where we were entertained by a jazz trio for almost three hours, I could spend more Saturday afternoons there - thoroughly enjoyable.

With aching feet we decided to spend the evening in our B&B playing scrabble and enjoying our early purchases of speciality cheeses and wine. For the record I WON THE SCRABBLE!!!!!

Sunday - the weekend draws to a close, and when you have to check out (even when you are desperate for some home comforts like a soft bed), there is always an anti climax feeling........ how fast it has all gone!

Wonderful and fond memories will remain, and I will visit Edinburgh again, perhaps next time during late Spring to see the Royal Botanic Garden in mid bloom, or simply just to be a little bit warmer..........and I will definately stay in a different B&B.